Court Ruppenthal:
Brewer ~ Winemaker

At Waitsburg's Laht Neppur Brewing Co., wine is more than just a menu footnote.

by Ryan Schreck

Despite some heroic efforts, it's been proven throughout history that man cannot live on beer alone. But for the past couple of years, Court Ruppenthal has given us good reason to keep trying.1

Laht Neppur Brewing Company serves original, handcrafted brews unlike anything you'll find in the supermarket beer aisle.2 Ruppenthal draws on German and British beer-making traditions, as well as his own 20 years of homebrew experience, to make his distinctive concoctions. "I like my beers to have complex flavors unique to themselves," he says. "I use different strains of yeast to create the different flavors." This, he feels, is in direct contrast with the Great American Lager.3

Perhaps in acknowledgement of beer's inability to fully sustain us, Ruppenthal has recently released his first wine, a Port-style Syrah named Ocourto.4 This strong, sweet wine is typically served with dessert, though it would also work well as a before-dinner drink. In anticipation of the Bluewood crowd, Ruppenthal specifically recommends the wine after a day on the slopes; in lieu of an actual fire to sit by, the 18 percent alcohol should warm you right up.5

Although wine is a recent addition to the Laht Neppur stable of libations, it has always been a part of the plan.6 Ruppenthal came to the valley to study winemaking at Walla Walla Community College. It takes much longer to ferment a grape than a grain, however, so he decided to establish the brewery first and introduce the wine at a later date.7 With the success of the brewery, he can now use the profits from his beer making to fund his foray into wine, and customers can enjoy the best of both worlds.

Up next is a Cabernet Sauvignon, due out in May, and further down the road Ruppenthal is contemplating a move into stronger spirits. Craft distilleries are growing in popularity, but Ruppenthal doesn't know of anybody in the country making beer, wine and liquor. "I'm not sure if I want to go for the triple crown," he says.8 "And the government might have something to say about making all three on the same premises. It was hard enough getting set up to do both beer and wine."9

Whatever his ultimate decision, there is plenty at Laht Neppur to keep visitors happy. Lunch, dinner and snacks are available in addition to wine and an ever-changing list of beers. You can bring your children in and take your beer to go.10 It's a family-friendly atmosphere that reflects Ruppenthal's overriding philosophy to "keep it fun".

Laht Neppur Brewing Company, located at 44 Preston Ave. in Waitsburg, is open Wednesday through Sunday.

1 If you do give it a shot, Laht Neppur's Oatmeal Porter is likely to provide the most nourishment. The German Kolsh, a light beer with berry flavors, can supply your daily servings of fruit, and the citrus flavors in the hoppy India Pale Ale will help keep scurvy at bay. N.B.: The American Medical Association does NOT recommend an all-beer diet.

2 Ruppenthal, like most microbrewers, holds a special antipathy for Budweiser.

3 Ibid.

4 Only those wines produced in Portugal can legally be called "Port," thus forcing Ruppenthal to destroy the original "Ocourto Oporto" labels and print new ones at the last minute. Ruppenthal holds state and federal alcohol regulators in the same esteem as he does Budweiser.

5 If you work for the Liquor Control Board and government ethics prevent you from drinking Port outside of Portugal, try the Winter Warmer, a spiced ale with a high alcohol content. And don't tell Ruppenthal who you work for. Also, disregard the children playing in the toy box and piles of peanut shells. They are just there for the homemade root beer.

6 Though he is hesitant to label it a midlife crisis, the nexus of events leading to the creation of Laht Neppur bears many of the hallmarks—an empty nest, semi-retirement, a trip to Europe, renewed appreciation for the conversion of agriculture into alcohol, relocation to the Walla Walla Valley.

7 Even before making wine, Laht Neppur contributed to the health of the wine industry, as a foil to its tannins and acidity. "After a day of wine tasting, my wife and I always find ourselves at a microbrewery to cleanse the palate," Ruppenthal says. Another contribution is noted on the Laht Neppur website (www.lathneppur.com): "It takes a lot of beer to make good wine."

8 In 1967, Carl Yastremski of the Boston Red Sox became the last baseball player to lead the league in home runs, batting average and runs batted in. This is the not the triple crown Ruppenthal speaks of, though both are equally rare.

9 Ibid Note 4.

10 But you must take your children home too. No bartering.

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